Today, hairdresser-colorist Yana Kamneva will share with us the most frequent and difficult cases faced by masters. It will be about dyeing, the effects of tap water on hair, natural dyes and keratin straightening.
1. From black to blond
The first and most frequent desire of customers is, of course, exit from the dark (sometimes black) colorpainted early with household paint from the mass market. And more often than not, girls want to end up with a cool shade of light brown hair or even blonde in one session.
Why is it difficult? Household dyes contain a lot of pigments… And the oxide that is in the paint box is usually very high – 6-9%, sometimes 12%. Therefore, when dyeing with such dyes, the hair is maximally pigmented with these shades. And getting them out of your hair is incredibly difficult.
What does a hairdresser do? He first resorts to acid wash, which pushes the pigment apart in the hair. And then with an alkaline wash (in other words, powder, powder, etc.) removes these pigments from the hair. And then it performs toning with the neutralization of unwanted pigment. Sometimes this kind of work takes 9-12 hours… And, most often, in one session we do not get cold shades or very light shades. Therefore, the way out of black can take 2-4 sessions.
2. Remove henna
An equally difficult case is recovery from vegetable dyes suchas henna and basma… As you already know, henna is made from the leaves of the lawsonia plant, and basma is made from the leaves of the indigosphere. In the modern world, you can hardly find pure henna, most often it is mixed with basma. There is also colorless henna, which can be found in some masks / balms, etc.
These dyes work not like permanent dyesthat we are used to working with. Henna and Basma affect the surface of the hair, forming a colored film around it. And permanent dyes affect the layers inside the hair. Accordingly, it is impossible to remove these pigments with the usual bleaching powder or acid wash! Henna discolors to a bright peach shade, and basma to marsh green. Therefore, some hairdressers have to resort to folk methods. Cleaning with alcohol / hot oils, etc. Only these procedures do not always help. Therefore, it is easier to grow hairs together and trim them.
3. Tonic and tint balms
The story is the same for most color pigments. For instance, tonic, anthocyanin, household-colorist, etc. They, like henna with basma, “sit” on the surface of the hair and, more often than not, get stuck. There is only one way to get rid of such dyes –wash the shade from the hair as much as possible regenerating series of shampoos and masks. And then apply the opposite color to the hair, which after a while will be washed off to zero.
What does it mean? For example, you have a stuck greenish tint in your hair. Ostwald’s color wheel rule, the opposite shade of green is pink. Therefore, you have to walk around with pink hair for a while if you want to get rid of the hated green.
4. Explosive mixture: blond and straightening
The next difficult case in the work of a hairdresser is the newfangled hair straightening in combination with a blond shade…
☝Keratin hair straightening in itself is not a departure. This is a chemical procedure for changing the structure of the hair, just like a perm, only with the opposite effect (the hair is straightened, not curled). This procedure can be done on natural or dyed hair in dark shades. But if you want to become blonde in the future or you have bleached hair, then it is worth thinking a million times.
After the tandem keratin straightening + bleaching, most often the hair permanently loses everything disulfide bonds in the hair and become stringy like gum, which subsequently leads to hair loss. A good hairdresser will make sure to do a section test on your hair to make sure your hair will withstand the bleaching.
Disulfide bonds in the hair in plain language– this is the main structure of the hair, on which the strength of the hair depends. Hair is mainly composed of protein (keratin). And keratin, in turn, consists of chains of amino acids that bind to each other disulfide bonds… It is these connections that suffer with keratin straightening. They are torn apart due to the chemical elements that are included in the straightening formulations (most often, the culprits of hair damage are formaldehyde and its derivatives), and keratin forms new direct bonds as part of this straightening.
☝But after a while, the keratin straightening is washed off, and the “holes” in the hair make themselves felt. Even if you bleach your hair on top–then the situation will become completely deplorable.
5. Water that kills bleached hair
This point applies to dyed blondes. The fact is that bleached hair – half empty inside, and during washing they absorb metals from the water. Therefore, if your hair from a snow-white blonde in a month or two has acquired a more reddish tint, it is the water with which you wash your hair that is to blame.
To remove this yellowness or redness, hairdressers have to resort to so-called chelated washes. The purpose of these washes is to remove metals from the hair. These are usually acidic organic washes. For example, a deep cleansing shampoo paired with a vitamin C, deep cleansing shampoo, and aspirin (or citric acid). These removes iron and copper from hair…
☝But the whole problem is that sometimes metals can be permanently deposited in hair. What can you do to avoid this? Put good filters on your faucets or wash your hair with bottled water.
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